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I can’t say that I’ve tried tons, but this is far and away my favorite Guaiac extract. The traditional Guaiac EOs I’ve tried were love at first sniff. It’s clearly a woody note, with dry smoky facets not unlike those of Amyris – but more pronounced. It’s lactonic facets are not too far from sandalwood territory (especially sandalwood absolute). If also has this sweet, almost honey-like undercurrent that I find quite unique among woody notes.
But there’s a catch: it feels like it’s being brutally pulled in opposite directions. Bonfire? Gentle embrace? Pick one and the other side of Guaiac’s split personality will come bite you with a vengeance. Use it in minuscule amounts and there will be tons of ways to get interesting effects. But try to make it stand out and you’ll find yourself walking on a tightrope. With traditional extracts, the contrast between the different facets of this material is just too stark. Love smelling it, usually hate working with it.
So guaiac is a prime candidate for the kind of order MD can bring. The two Guaic MD extracts I’ve had my hands on go in opposite directions. IFF’s focuses on the material’s drier, smoky facets, whereas Robertet’s best showcases its sweeter, lactonic facets. Both products are still recognizably guaiac: you get the full spectrum going from smoke to honey. But much greater harmony makes them much less restrictive in terms of where you can go.
I happen to prefer Guaiac’s sweeter facets, and this Robertet extract gets that story just right.
Woody, honey-like, spicy and with a hint of smoke – much less smoke compared to other guaiacwoods I have come across. Very complex it is almost a fragrance all on its own. Perfect for adding some warmth to wood accords, particularly cedar and interesting to build in and around eugenol and spicy facets in rose and carnation accords.
I love guaiacwood and this is the best version I’ve smelled. I find it not so much less smoky as less sharp-metallic and more round and floral as opposed to foody – I find that some oils have a bacon-like quality, whereas this on its own seems more like something one would want to wear as a fragrance, although it still has savory qualities. It also seems stronger and sweeter than the eos I’ve used.
Marcelo Gallegos –
Absolutely in love with this. It’s perfectly soft, creamy, woody, and floral all blending together in perfect harmony. Someone else mentioned honey and a hint of smoke, which are also in there to my nose. This is an absolutely beautiful material, which is surprisingly easy to work with for a solid — it dissolves very quickly in perfumer’s alcohol and imparts its luxurious scent. This also has amazing tenacity for me. I blended a heavy dose of it with Timbersilk, Beeswax Absolute, and the infamous Fixateur 505 and am left with an absolutely sumptuous scent which lasts for 8+ hours on my skin. The price also can’t be beat. Do yourself a favor and get this!
I have admittedly not tried other guaiac materials, so I couldn’t do any sort of comparison, but I do really like this Guaiac Heart for what it is. It’s creamy and woody but with a touch of savory smokiness, which is interesting. I’ve had nice results blending this with rose materials as well as cedar and vetiver. also, I find this material easy to work with as it dissolves easily in both fixed oils and alcohol. Really nice stuff!
This one really surprised me. Autumn nights, a bit of smoke in the air, damp ground, and fallen leaves and bit of spice. It is a very curios scent, one of those materials that you have to keep smelling… something brings you back. Love it!
Best of Guaiac I’ve ever seen. Deep woody, refined, pure, without smoked sausages . A hint of of hay and honey flowers, like thistles.
Raffaello Sapere –
Wonderful Robertet Guaiac, rich in Guaiol and less smoky than regular Guaiac. Robertet is best for natural compounds.
Smoky, woody, smooth and almost dewy but in a flattering way for a material like this. As it dries down it turns soft and petal-like, retaining the smokiness but in a really elegant way.